Sit start on the left side of the boulder, follow arete to the top.

Piranha

Band of Gypsies

Maniacal Moray

Dirty Harry

Kingpin

Sticks and Stones Break Bones

Machine Gun Funk aka Susan's Arete

Hired Goons

Your Mom's Traverse

Buddy Miles

Eelin' Groovy

Cougar Magnum

Gypsy Funk

Sit start, match hands at the left end of the lower crack (the eel's 'mouth'). Squeeze your heels and bump to the upper crack, then follow it right until you can throw for a smooth grey oval patch of rock at the lip (may want to first check it out from above to locate it). Grab the big horn and top out over the small boulder it's attached to.

A good problem on decent rock.  For the grade, you may find a couple of tricky body positions.

Start in the scoops on the face. You may find that the easiest method is a bit dynamic. A fun problem.

A little harder if you're shorter. Start on the jugs to the right of the tree around 6 feet off the ground.

The sit start is also fun, and adds a grade.

Sit start in granite scoop, matching hands at obvious small shelf near the bottom of the finger crack. Follow crack up until the horizontal seam on the slab to the right. Shift right onto the slab, commit to your footwork, rock up and top out.

Start as for Machine Gun Funk but move into Buddy Miles. Only slightly harder

Perhaps the best problem at the boulder.  Machine Gun Funk has great rock, good movement, and a cool topout.  Start sitting, with sidepulls, and find your way up the arete to the little crimp and the finish.

Same start as Kingpin, but continue along finger crack to the top near a small pine tree for the finish.

When done, exit left around the tree, and up the ramp to the trail at the top of the wall.

Start matched on the incut on the left of the boulder in the crack. Traverse right using whatever hands you can find in the crack and small feet. Compress as much as you can when you get to the big boulder, swinging your feet from the left to right side. Top out via Band of Gypsies.

Certainly the least fun problem at the Machine Gun, but it's still worth doing. Start sitting, and make a long reach, probably while using a drop knee.

Or, start on low feet with your left hand on an undercling and right hand on a sidepull. Big move up to a crimp and then to a slopey finish.

Traverse left a bit to top out.

Same start as Maniacal Moray, but after bumping to the upper crack, shift left and follow arete to the top.

Start on the flat shelf on the left end of the boulder, get those hands in the two parallel cracks, step up, and mantle.

There is a good, fairly clean, and distinct line of holds on the far left side of the boulder.  Fun movement.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Machine Gun Boulder